It would be so easy to say that all you need is a $6,000 Cannon EOS-1D camera, a $30,000 Sigma 1000mm zoom lens , and a $700 Gitzo carbon fiber tripod; and you would be well on your way to taking great surfing pictures — but what fun would that be.
OK, a lot of fun, but for most of us it would be completely out of the question. Besides, the idea here is to get great pictures without having to spend a lot of money on new equipment. For surfing pictures, a relatively good camera and a little bit of know-how can get you a long way.
Equipment
The first piece of equipment you have to decide on is, of course, the camera. Basically, you can use whatever camera you have as long as it has a zoom of some kind. It doesn’t matter how much of a zoom, just something (even if it’s only 55 mm). In the example pictures, I intentionally used a 55mm zoom to show you that it can be done in spite of what people tell you.
Obviously, the better the camera, the better you’re surfing pictures will be, but it doesn’t have to be really expensive to do the job. Even a $100 dollar snapshot camera can net you some good pictures.
The next thing to get would be the largest, fastest memory card you can afford (if you are using a camera with film then you can skip this part). If you have to sacrifice anything when choosing a card, sacrifice space over speed. If you’re debating on whether to get the faster 2 gig over a standard 8 gig, by all means, choose the faster 2 gig.
The last thing you’ll need is a tripod, especially if you are going to be shooting from the beach. A moderately priced tripod is all you need, nothing fancy. Of course, If you can find a way to get closer to the action you may not need a tripod right away, but we will be discuss that further down.
Timing
When I refer to timing here, I’m not talking about your skill at determining when to shoot, I’m referring to the time of day. Since you will most likely be zoomed in for most of your shots you will want to have the sun to your back and to shoot on a relatively clear day. Depending on where you live this will either be before noon or some time in the afternoon.
Since I live in California, I do all of my surfing shots early. I try to pick days that are not too cloudy. Sometimes I do shoot pictures as late as 3 pm, but I find I have to do a lot of touch-up on the faces later. You, of course, will determine your own best shooting times based on which coast you’re on.
Setup
First of all, your camera should be set up with the largest picture possible and the highest resolution (RAW if you have the option). This is especially important if you don’t have much of a zoom lens. Later on you will be able to crop your pictures to get the results you want.
As for the other settings you basically have two choices: you can either set your camera on sport shot – or whatever your camera calls it — or you can make it a learning experience and set up the shots manually. Of course, If your camera only has manual settings then you will have to learn how to do it manually.
First determine your aperture setting based on your light readings (or your best guess) but try to shoot for wide open if you can get away with it. Set the shutter speed for 1/1000 or better with an ISO of around 400 or slightly higher.
It will take you a little trial and error to get it right, so don’t wait until the next big surf tournament to find out what your best settings are. Take a lot of practice pictures to see what your camera can do.
After you have set up your camera for the best possible shot you’ll want to set the shutter on continuous so you can catch all of the fast action. Now you’re ready to shoot some pictures.
Location, location, location
If you’re taking pictures from the beach, you’ll need set up your tripod as close to the water as you feel comfortable. I don’t suggest that you stand in the water, but if some wash comes up on your feet once in a while then you’re probably close enough. You don’t want to be so close that water can splash up onto your lens.
If you happen to live by a pier or a jetty then you’re in luck. Shooting from a pier has the advantage of getting up close to the surfers, and if don’t have much of a zoom lens this can make up for it. Even if you do have a good zoom, you won’t have to zoom up as close, making it easier to get clearer pictures.
Another advantage of the pier is that it allows you to see the big waves coming even before the surfers do. The one disadvantage in shooting from a pier is that as your subject gets closer to you, the more obvious it is that you’re getting a birds eye view.
The best vantage point is from a jetty, because they tend to be lower and your pictures will have a more grounded look. It also shortens the distance between you and your subject since you won’t have that extra twenty feet of height like you do on a pier. The biggest disadvantage, of course, is the potential of getting your camera wet (not just a little moist — possibly soaked).
What to shoot
Well, surfers of course! After shooting for a while you will start to notice which surfers to watch and which ones to pass on. A surfer who rides stiff and without good form will look that way even on a still photo. Look for the ones that look well balanced and show a lot of action when they surf.
Although the ability to read the waves is a plus, it’s not absolutely necessary for taking good surf photos. After a while you will be able to pick up clues from the surfers when a good wave is about to hit.
In spite of the fact that surfing is a relatively fast sport, you actually have more time than you think to pick out which surfer you are going to follow, especially if you already have an idea who to watch. You can pretty much watch and wait until the surfer is standing on his board before you start shooting.
No matter who you end up following, make sure to take a lot of pictures. Most professional surfing photographers will tell you that about 2/3rds of the pictures will end up in the trash can anyway, so give yourself plenty of pictures to work with.
Editing the pictures
The real trick to getting good surfing photos, is knowing what to do with the pictures after you get them out of the camera. The first thing you will be doing is tossing out the pictures that can’t be fixed. Resist the urge to keep them. If they’re junk they’re junk so toss them out and don‘t waste your time.
Go through the usable pictures and look for the action scenes. Don’t worry about how big the waves are because, as you can see from the example pictures, it’s not the size of the wave that counts but how you use it.
Select pictures that show good surfing form. I’ve had many pictures that were ruined by a dumb expression or a strange pose. Surfers need to look balanced and comfortable on their boards.
When you’ve picked out all of your good photos then you’ll need to decide on how to crop them. Most surfing pictures will be cropped quite close (especially if the waves were bad), unless some other element in the picture makes it more interesting. Scenes with ocean spray or board trails can make great pictures, so try to work them in.
Crop out large areas of dead water because it tends to make the picture look dull and unexciting. Water appears better in photographs when it shows some movement. Sections showing the curl, spray or whitewater, will make the scene come alive.
Sometimes you’ll find a good action picture but the waves look way too small. With these, I try to crop the photo with a little whitewater above the surfers head and some of the curl at the bottom. Taking off the headroom and extending the space below the board can make a tiny wave look like a monster.
A final thought
Study the photos in surfing magazines for more ideas on how to edit your pictures. Look at the placement of the surfers in the frame and the balance of the water in the picture. With practice you will be able to create your own awesome surfing pictures — and without breaking the bank.
By Ron Chatham
